Erosion...can you fight it?
How much energy is involved with waves and
erosion?
Can humans stop erosion of the shoreline? Should we?
Is it cost effective?
Objectives
Students will be able to:
- determine how much energy is in a
wave
- list structures used for
shoreline defense
- determine the types of materials
appropriate for a shoreline and the cost effectiveness
of using different types of materials
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Materials
Computers with Internet access
Calculators
Student Worksheet (.doc)
Optional: stream tables, water, sand, piece of rock, masonry,
wood, steel, and concrete
Background
Several engineering solutions are used for coastal protection
and beach restoration.
In the past, construction of hard structures such as groins
and sea walls have been used with varying degrees of success.
Some solutions have been successful, some require expensive
ongoing maintenance and others have caused even more
problems. Another method of coastal protection is to
artificially nourish the beaches by transporting sand from
another location to restore a
beach. Once again, this method has varying
levels of success.
Groins, usually made of timber,
rock or concrete, are built perpendicular to a beach and into the water to
trap sand. On beaches where waves arrive at right angles to the shore, a
series of groins can trap sand, creating a series of small beaches.
On beaches where waves arrive at an angle to the
shore and the beach is affected by longshore drifting, a
different situation arises. As the water and sand move
by, the
first groin will trap sand meanwhile starving the beach of
sand (and other groin) further along the shore. Groins can be designed to
allow some sand to spill around the structure and minimize
downstream erosion.
Groins are not successful in all circumstances contributing to further erosion.
A careful analysis of wave approach and currents should precede
any decision to install a groin, and the structures should be carefully
designed for the specific location.
Seawalls may be constructed of timber, rock, steel or concrete and are
placed at the back of a beach. Although seawalls can
protect the land directly behind, they can
also accelerate erosion at the end of the wall and/or cause
erosion of the beach in front of the seawall. When waves
hit the wall and retreat, the wave action scours sand from the beach
back into the water.
Ultimately, the beach becomes lower and flatter, creating a
condition where waves become larger, which increases the scouring action and the
beach is eventually lost.
Artificial beach nourishment (replenishment) is the depositing
of sand from elsewhere to replenish eroded beaches. Sand
may be trucked in or dredged and pumped from offshore.
But it is not as easy as it sounds. The nourishing sand
must be as coarse as the sand that is currently on the beach.
If the nourishing sand is of a finer grain, the sand will be
easily swept away by normal wave action. On beaches
where sand has been
lost through longshore drifting it is likely that nourishing
sand will also be lost. Sometimes in this scenario,
groins are constructed to trap
drifting sand.
It is important to remember that coastal erosion is a natural process and does not always have
a negative outcome. It is the natural erosion process
which gets sand on beaches in the first place, but if interference
occurs with natural erosion and deposition patterns, undesired outcomes requiring
further action can occur.
The decision to take action is the responsibility of coastal managers.
Coastal Managers often face difficult decisions involving roads and
buildings that are in danger of damage or destruction. In
some cases, the preferred long term solution may be to
relocate or abandon structures instead of fighting a losing
battle with the sea. However, this is usually impractical due
to the investment value of coastal properties and financial
benefit of coastal tourism.
If the decision is made to construct coastal protection
structures, the Army Corps of Engineers usually becomes
involved. During the process, the Corps determines the
amount of wave energy is unleashed on the beach, then searches for the most economical,
environmentally sound and socially acceptable solutions.
In some cases, this will involve hard structures or in many other cases,
the preferable
approach is beach nourishment.
Corps shore protection projects are usually cost-shared with
the State, the local jurisdiction where the project is
located, or both.
In this lesson, students will work in cooperative groups as
engineering teams charged with creating a coastal protection
solution.
Procedure
Problem Statement
Your engineering team has been charged to submit a bid for a
design for a 600 meter seawall to protect a major coastal
highway. Your team must design the wall right at the
edge of the water. The structure must be able to
withstand the impact of the ocean waves. You cannot
spend any more money on the project than is necessary, so it
is crucial that the team know what materials can be used in
construction and how much each material will cost. It is
also important to know that there will be no funding available
for beach nourishment (replenishment) in the future.
Your team will have to give a 10 minute presentation on the
seawall design and submit the bid to the Project Manager
(teacher).
1. To determine the amount of wave energy, use an
equation to calculate the amount of energy based on the height
of a wave. First, determine the amount of energy for
every square meter of wave, the energy (joules) is equal to
1260.6 times the square of the wave height.
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Wave Energy
= 1260.6 (Wave Height)2 |
2. To determine the Total Energy in a
wave, calculate the total surface area of the wave and
multiply that by the wave energy.
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Total Energy
= Wave Energy (surface area of wave) |
For example, calculate the energy for an
average open water wave that is 2 meters high, 7 meters wide
and 500 meters long:
Wave Energy = 1260.6 (Wave Height)2
Wave Energy = 1260.6 (2)m2
Wave Energy = 1260.6 (4)m2
Wave Energy = 5042.4 Joules/m2
Total Energy = Wave Energy (surface area of wave)
Total Energy = Wave Energy (7 meters x 500 meters)
Total Energy = 5042.4 Joules/m2 (3,500m2)
Total Energy = 17,648,400 Joules or
1.76484 x 107 Joules |
3. For this activity, the waves will be 8 meters wide,
and the section of the seawall that the waves will hit is 300
meters long. Determine the highest water height for this
month:
Sandy Hook
4. Calculate the Total Energy of the wave.
5. Using the table of materials below, your team must
design a wall to withstand the wave energy calculated above.
|
Material |
Strength |
Cost/cubic meter |
Amount needed |
Total
Cost |
| Natural
Rock |
30
million joules |
$50/cubic meter |
900
cubic meters |
|
| Masonry |
40
million joules |
$150/cubic meter |
300
cubic meters |
|
| Wood |
4
million joules |
$25/cubic meter |
2000
cubic meters |
|
| Steel |
90
million joules |
$225/cubic meter |
300
cubic meters |
|
| Concrete |
50
million joules |
$180/cubic meter |
800
cubic meters |
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Note: The Strength represents how much
energy the material can absorb PER WAVE before it structurally
fails. The Amount Needed column represents how much
material needed to supply the stated strength. For
example, a wall of 2,000 cubic meters of wood can absorb a
maximum of 4 million joules from each wave that hits it.
6. One of the highest waves in recorded history for this
site was 5 meters high. This wave occurred during an
exceptionally large storm. Would this information change
your design? If so, explain.
7. The following links may be of assistance for
research:
8. Using all of this information,
create a bid for a design for the seawall project described in
the Problem Statement.
Your team must create a 10 minute presentation on the seawall
design and submit the bid to the Project Manager (teacher).
When preparing your project, your group might also want to
consider if the project will be cost effective, possible
alternatives, tourism dollars, etc.
Any mix of materials is allowable, but remember that your bid
and presentation will be judged according to:
- calculations
- structural integrity
- projected longevity
- aesthetics
- environmental concerns
- cost
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Assessment
Project presentations given by the groups.
Extension
1.
Use stream tables to recreate the proposals set forth by the
different student groups. Obtain sand for the bottom of
the table and have the students "build" their proposed
structure using chunks of rock, masonry, wood, etc.
Shift the stream table to get the water moving to create some
wave action. Have the students note if the sand moves or
not, and where it moves based on the structure that they
built. Obviously this is not a direct and scalable
reflection of their design, but should offer some insight to
the movement of sand in the different scenarios.
2. Determine Erosion Rates for your local shoreline.
Many states have information on the internet:
This lesson has been adapted from a Brookdale Community
College lesson developed by Robert Macaluso.
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